Water Treatment Troubleshooting
Water Treatment Troubleshooting
Quick checks for the most common softener, RO and UV problems. Still stuck? Send us a photo and a short description — we answer messages fast.
My softener is not softening (hard water, spots, scale)
- Salt: lift the brine tank lid. Is there salt, and is it loose? A hard crust (a "salt bridge") stops brine from forming — break it up with a broom handle.
- Bypass: make sure the bypass handles are in service, not bypass.
- Clock/settings: power outages reset some timers. Check the time of day and hardness setting.
- Injector: a clogged injector or screen stops the valve from drawing brine. Pull and rinse it.
- Resin: resin wears out after roughly 10–15 years (sooner with chlorine). If everything above checks out, it is time for a rebed.
Parts: Fleck parts · Clack parts · Resin & rebed kits
Water keeps running to the drain
A valve that never stops draining is almost always worn piston, seals and spacers, or debris stuck in them. A rebuild kit fixes most of these. Note the valve model on the head (for example Fleck 5600SXT or Clack WS1) before ordering.
Parts: Fleck rebuild kits · Clack pistons & seals
Brine tank is overflowing or full of water
Check the brine line and brine valve / float for sticking, and the injector for a clog. A valve that cannot draw brine keeps refilling the tank.
Reverse osmosis: slow faucet or low tank output
- Filters: sediment and carbon pre-filters are usually due every 6–12 months; clogged ones starve the membrane.
- Tank air: with the tank empty, the air pressure should be about 7 psi.
- Membrane: typically lasts 2–5 years depending on water. Low output with fresh filters usually means a new membrane.
Parts: RO filters & membranes · Commercial RO
UV system alarm or lamp light out
UV lamps lose strength before they burn out — most need replacing every 12 months even if they still glow. Clean or replace the quartz sleeve at the same time.
Parts: UV lamps & sleeves
Low water pressure in the whole house
Start with the sediment filter — a plugged cartridge is the #1 cause. Then check that bypass valves are fully open.
Parts: Filters & cartridges · Booster pumps
Rotten egg or sulfur smell
Hot water only usually points to the water heater anode. Hot and cold usually means hydrogen sulfide in the water, which needs an air-injection or catalytic carbon filter. Send us a water test or description and we will point you to the right setup.
Parts: Whole-house filtration
Include your valve or system model and a photo of the head — that is usually all we need.